The tropical tiki hut bar and dockside dining at Two Georges Waterfront Grille, open since 1957, create a relaxed atmosphere that make the restaurant a local favorite as well as an attraction for seasonal visitors.

Beach and boat attire are common, especially since Two Georges’ waterfront dockage is very accommodating to the boating community. The restaurant is open air, and gets a breeze from the waterway.

When the restaurant got busy, service slowed. In light of the wonderful waterfront view, however, it was not particularly distracting. Two Georges is the kind of place to unwind and not be in too much of a hurry.

From the appetizer selections, the Bang Bang Shrimp ($10.99) is recommended. Although it’s prepared with smaller-sized salad shrimp, the portion is huge. The creamy, sweet and spicy Thai sauce is excellent without a lot of burn.

Mary’s Conch Fritters ($6.99 small, $10.99 large) are a nice variation on the ubiquitous appetizer. Resembling a potato pancake more than a fritter, they are crispy on the outside, yet smooth and savory on the inside. With more conch than filler, they are hearty and the small portion was more than enough for two people to share.

The soft shell crab dinner ($20.99) is a nice meal for the price. The two crabs are lightly battered and deep fried, and served with a choice of sides.

Crab Norfolk ($22.99) is full of jumbo lump blue crab meat baked with butter and a hint of garlic. The portion is generous. The delicate crabmeat would have been excellent served alongside a steak. However, the menu only offers Reef & Beef ($21.99), steak and fried shrimp.

The grilled New York steak ($23.99) is a 12-ounce cut garnished with fried onion rings. Although the steak was served more done than ordered, it was flavorful and tender.

If ever there was the perfect setting for Key lime pie ($4.99), dockside at Two Georges is it. Light and creamy, with a texture close to cheesecake, this not-too-tart version is the perfect end to a lovely meal.

Casa Loma Boulevard is undergoing a rebirth and, with the addition of the new high rises, parking can be a challenge. Valet parking is available, or park a little farther away and enjoy a stroll along the marina to get to the restaurant.

Please call to confirm hours, prices, menu items and facilities. For review consideration, fax a current menu that includes the name and address of restaurant to 954-356-4386 or send to Sun-Sentinel, 200 E. Las Olas Blvd., Fort Lauderdale, FL 33301-2293.

Write to dining correspondent Donald Kim at or in care of the Sun-Sentinel.

INFORMATIONAL BOX:

*** (OUT OF 4)

Cuisine: seafood

728 Casa Loma Blvd., Boynton Beach

561-736-2717

twogeorgesrestaurant.com

Cost: moderate

Credit cards: all major

Hours: lunch, dinner daily

Reservations: for parties of eight or more

Sound level: moderate

Bar: full service

Smoking: outside tables

Children’s facilities: yes

Wheelchair accessible: yes