The history of Sichuan cuisine, why we love ‘the burn’ and its mouth-numbing feel, its therapeutic effects and where to eat it in Hong Kong

A region’s food is an expression of its history and culture, and to understand the success of Sichuan food one must first look at how it came to be.

Sichuan province, in southwestern China, has a dramatic topography, including a large river basin and several mountain ranges. These features produce a range of climatic conditions, which in turn lead to agricultural diversity.

Contrary to popular belief, Sichuan peppercorns are the dried berries of Chinese prickly ash, a shrub, and do not belong to the hot pepper family at all. They are not spicy, but deliver the unique numbing sensation that puts the “ma” in mala – Sichuan’s renowned numbing spice sensation.

Still, as synonymous as Sichuan pepper is with the region’s cuisine, it would be reductive to say that it is its only star. Chilli peppers also feature heavily, and are believed to have been introduced to Sichuan cuisine in the 16th and 17th centuries.

Sichuan was not the only region of China to be exposed to chillies, but it is the region that has incorporated the spicy pepper into its cuisine more than any other.

The reason for this lies in the Sichuan basin’s humid climate. In Chinese medicine, too much dampness is considered bad for the body’s energy and balance.

In ancient times, Sichuanese used the warming effect of garlic and ginger to dispel the moisture and cold. However, when chilli peppers arrived in China from South America, they found the new ingredient complemented their food.

Outside Hong Kong and China, Sichuan food has over the years garnered a reputation for attracting adventurous foodies, and one reason for this lies in psychology.

‘Respect the culture’: how UK author Fuchsia Dunlop champions Sichuan food

In the 1980s, Paul Rozin, a psychology professor and pioneering chilli researcher at the University of Pennsylvania, in the United States, came up with the term “benign masochism”.

He theorised that those who actively sought out the pain delivered by hot chillies were attracted to the thrill of living on the edge without actually exposing themselves to real danger.

Three decades later, John Hayes and Nadia Byrnes, food science researchers at the same university, confirmed Rozin’s theory. After conducting a series of psychological experiments in 2013, they found a significant correlation between people who liked “the burn” and people with strong “sensation-seeking” tendencies.

Yan Wong, co-founder of HK Spicy Concern Group – an Instagram account showcasing spicy food and cooking, with particular focus on mala flavours – spoke to the Post about what attracted her to the heat of Sichuan cuisine.

“My friend and I founded the page because we were both drawn to the excitement that comes with spicy food, which I’m sure is a major factor for many spice lovers,” Wong says.

“On a more personal level, we’ve both had experiences with depression as well as eating disorders. I remember reading somewhere that people with depressive tendencies can be drawn to the spicy sensation for the endorphins it releases in our body.

“Also, spicy food has strong flavours that can help compensate for the lack of appetite that may occur in people with eating disorders,” she adds.

Perhaps this is one of the reasons chuan cai is so popular. In today’s world – where bright, shiny images dominate our social media feeds, and people are increasingly in need of constant stimulation – Sichuan dishes scratch an itch.

Salivating already? Hong Kong has many restaurants that specialise in authentic Sichuan cooking. Here are five of our favourites:

San Xi Lou

San Xi Lou has been one of the go-tos for Sichuan lovers in Hong Kong for well over a decade, since opening in its original Mid-Levels location in 2008. It has since moved to Lee Theatre, in Causeway Bay, and continues to attract customers with its great food and contemporary Chinese interior. We recommend its signature sautéed diced chicken with spicy red chilli – it tastes like heaven but burns like hell.

17/F, Lee Theatre, 99 Percival Street, Causeway Bay

Deng G

Headed by chef Deng Huadong, who grew up in the Sichuan provincial capital, Chengdu, Deng G is dedicated to presenting the diverse flavours of Sichuan cuisine beyond mala.

The menu presents dishes under eight different “classifications”, including yuxiang (“fish fragrant”), wula (peppery-spicy), and sweet and sour.

Its signature dishes include camphor smoked duck, minced chicken with crab roe, and spicy marinated beef with dried tangerine peel – a new take on an old recipe. The unique baijiu cocktails are also worth a try.

Deng G has a second branch at K11 Musea in Tsim Sha Tsui.

2/F, Weswick Commercial Building, 147-149 Queen’s Road East, Wan Chai

Sijie

Sijie is a no-frills establishment serving down-to-earth Sichuan dishes.

The venue is small and unassuming, but don’t let that fool you; the menu is diverse, the portions are generous and the dishes pack a spicy punch.

Not to be missed at this decades-old local favourite are the Sichuan cold noodles (tossed at the table), poached fish in hot chilli oil, and the old faithful – dan dan noodles, a dish that sounds simple to make but is difficult to master.

The restaurant has a second branch in Gloucester Road, Wan Chai.

10/F, Bartlock Centre, 3 Yiu Wa Street, Causeway Bay

Chilli Fagara

Opened in 2005, Chilli Fagara’s kitchen is led by chef Chan Kai-ying, born in Chongqing – a municipality carved out of Sichuan province in the 1990s.

He sources premium ingredients for his innovative menu that includes vegan, vegetarian, gluten-free and halal options.

The dishes are split into three categories: ma, la and tang. It’s recommended to start with some from the flavourful tang category, before moving on to ma dishes for a numbing sensation.

Finally, enjoy a spicy la option for an exciting climax to your meal.

G/F, 7 Old Bailey Street, Central

Chuan Po Po

This takeaway- and delivery-only Sichuan noodle place has become a Tsim Sha Tsui institution since opening in 2010, with the strong, spicy aroma that emanates from its kitchen permeating the narrow alley in which it is located.

The signature dish here is malatang – a street-food dish in Sichuan. At Chuan Po Po, you can customise this noodle soup with your choice of toppings, noodles and spice level.

Chuan Po Po has branches in Mong Kok, Causeway Bay and Kwun Tong, which have expanded menus, including items such as Sichuan boiled beef and various street snacks.

A second Tsim Sha Tsui location serves hotpot in classic Sichuan-style nine-grid pots.

Shop D, 7A Hau Fook Street, Tsim Sha Tsui