Standing with my new hiking poles in Birethanti, a small village 1,100 metres above sea level that straddles the Modi River, a 90-minute drive from Pokhara, I’m feeling a little nervous about the prospect of the five-day Poon Hill Circuit trek. The suspension bridge hung with prayer flags at the trail head is enough to remind me that I am in Nepal’s famed Annapurna Conservation Area, however, and my nerves soon give way to excitement as we set off.
Our group of 12 – from Russia, the UK, the Netherlands and Australia – makes its way across the ravine to Ulleri on steep steps made from schist, a layered rock with a metallic shine, mined from local hills, testing my poles.
As we take shelter from a short downpour, I hear the sounds of bells and look up to see donkeys coming towards us. “This is how they transport goods between the villages,” our guide explains.
Thankfully, we’ll have the comfort of a hot shower in the tea houses along the route – these guest houses for trekkers are similar to youth hostels. Our rooms are basic but are insulated and warm, with en suite bathrooms and power points. The food is hearty; usually we are served dal bhat, a lentil soup dish with rice and side dishes.
We continue to Ghorepani in the morning along stone paths through lush jungle. It is a relatively easy five-hour journey compared to the next day, which involves an hour’s hike at dawn to see the sunrise from Poon Hill, followed by a seven-hour trek from Ghorepani to Ghandruk via the Deurali Pass.
The morning view from Poon Hill is the highlight of the trek. At 3,210 metres (10,530 feet), Poon Hill is one of the lower peaks in Nepal’s Annapurna Conservation Area. Rays of sun refract from behind the Annapurna range, casting a pink and orange halo as the sun emerges.
As we walk the Deurali Pass, the hills are dotted with stone stupas, built by locals to pay respect to the mountains.
The next day, we set off on a steep ascent from Ghandruk to Australian Camp – a misspelt village, named after some Austrians who camped there. We pass numerous villages along the way, consisting of a cluster of one and two-storey buildings by the stone path, some with a square and a simple water tap in the centre. Curious schoolchildren greet us with smiles and high fives as they pass, effortlessly hopping up the steps that we struggle with.
On the last day, as we make our way from Australian Camp back to Pokhara, we trudge through a wet field. Suddenly, the girl in front of us starts screaming. “Be careful of the leeches,” says our guide, casually.
Alarmed, I share a look with the others and start running in the opposite direction, only to find I have one attached to my ankle. The creature turns out to be mostly harmless, however, just pinching a little when removed.
Luckily, the pickup point isn’t far; the steps soon give way to mud road and then to concrete. I collapse onto a chair at a bus stop by the main road to Pokhara, tending to my wound under the curious gaze of locals.
While it has been a wonderful hike, the thought of clean clothes and getting out of my hiking boots is extremely appealing.
When to go: the best time to hike Poon Hill is between September and November, or February to mid-April to avoid the rainy season (June to August).
If you go: it is not mandatory to have a guide or porter to trek the Poon Hill Circuit, but a Tims (Trekker Information Management System) is required. This can be applied for in Kathmandu or Pokhara, and costs 2,000 rupees (US$17.60) and 1,000 rupees for individual and group hikers respectively. If you decide to join a group, the tour company will help you arrange it.
This article appeared in the South China Morning Post print edition as: Lentils and leeches: five days in Nepal’s stunning Annapurna range
